The Chemistry of Color: A Comparative Analysis of Natural and Synthetic Dyes in Textile Application

Author

Caitlyn Pinaga CPhT, St. Mary's UniversityFollow

Publication Date

Winter 12-10-2025

Degree Level

B.A.

Program

Biology

First Advisor

Dr. Erendra Manandhar

Second Advisor

Dr. Terry Shackleford

Document Type

Project

Medium

Physical Swatchbook

LCSH subject

Chemistry, Fashion, Sustainability, Textiles, Biology, Environmental Health, Green Chemistry, Color Chemistry, Natural Dye Traditions, Synthetic Dye Development, Fiber–Dye Interactions, Environmental Impacts, Human Health Effects, Dye Performance Comparison, Sustainable Dye Technologies, Ethical Consumer Practices, Chemistry and Design

Abstract

The Chemistry of Color: A Comparative Analysis of Natural and Synthetic Dyes in Textile Application examines how color functions at the intersection of chemistry, culture, and environmental responsibility. This project traces the evolution of dyeing from ancient natural pigment traditions, rooted in ecological knowledge, agricultural practices, and cultural identity, to the industrial rise of synthetic dyes, whose laboratory precision enabled unprecedented consistency, brightness, and global textile expansion. Through experimental swatch analysis, the study compares the behavior of natural dyes derived from plants and food sources with modern fiber-reactive and synthetic dye classes on a range of fibers including cotton, bamboo viscose, and polyester/spandex. These results highlight the inherent variability and subtlety of natural pigments as well as the engineered performance of synthetic dyes, while also demonstrating the critical role of fiber chemistry: cellulose-based fibers readily form covalent or hydrogen-bonding interactions with dyes, whereas synthetic polymers resist uptake without specialized dye systems.

The project also examines the broader consequences of modern dyeing. Synthetic dyes contribute substantially to global water pollution, persist in ecosystems due to their chemical stability, and pose risks to human health through contaminated waterways and factory exposure. Natural dyes, while less toxic in principle, face limitations in scalability, colorfastness, and resource intensity. Thus, the comparison between natural and synthetic systems is not a binary of “good” versus “bad,” but a nuanced reflection of the chemical, economic, and ethical forces shaping modern fashion. The study argues that sustainable progress depends on shared responsibility: industries must adopt cleaner technologies such as improved wastewater treatment, low-impact dye chemistries, and waterless dyeing systems, while consumers influence demand through mindful purchasing, clothing care, and material choices.

By integrating molecular analysis, ecological critique, historical context, and personal perspective as a designer and biochemistry student, this project reframes textile dyeing as a complex dialogue between science and aesthetics. Its central claim is that understanding the chemistry of color reveals how every dyed garment carries both a material history and an environmental consequence. Ultimately, the work calls for a future in which the aesthetics of color no longer outlasts ecosystems, and where innovation, craft, and responsibility coexist in the creation of textiles.

The published version of this book, a scanned version of a physical book, is located in the Digital Commons at St. Mary’s University.

Recommended Citation

n/a

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-No Derivative Works 4.0 International License.